{"id":123855,"date":"2025-04-02T15:12:35","date_gmt":"2025-04-02T22:12:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/?p=123855"},"modified":"2025-04-03T11:46:05","modified_gmt":"2025-04-03T18:46:05","slug":"legendary-underwood-bistro-serves-up-worldly-surprises-in-graton","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/legendary-underwood-bistro-serves-up-worldly-surprises-in-graton\/","title":{"rendered":"Legendary Underwood Bistro Serves up Worldly Surprises in Graton"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Hidden deep within rural west county is a restaurant you&#8217;ve visited a hundred times or have never heard of.<\/p>\n<p>Locally, it&#8217;s legendary, a longtime favorite of wine industry folk who stop in for a beer after a long day among the vines and barrels of Green Valley. No one bats an eye when someone wearing dusty boots and Carhartt pants walks through the door.<\/p>\n<p>Underwood Bistro is part of the fabric of Graton, having weathered nearly 25 years in the volatile restaurant industry. Built on the bones of a former roadhouse and watering hole, it&#8217;s retained its familiar come-as-you-are charm. Once inside, however, diners are transported to a Parisian-style bistro with long banquettes, bentwood chairs, a nickel-topped bar and soft yellow lighting that gives it an all-day sunset glow.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"YouTube video player\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/_6A_APET6JM?si=8lLLvGj1MdsOak92\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Opened in 2001 by San Francisco transplant and former chef Matthew Greenbaum, the menu has always featured brasserie classics like French onion soup, steak frites, cauliflower gratin and duck leg confit. But the kitchen is equally adept at tapas-style Mediterranean dishes and maybe a surprise Thai dish or two in the last few years.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s never been easy to pinpoint Underwood\u2019s exact focus \u2014 \u201cglobal tapas\u201d doesn\u2019t do it justice \u2014 but more importantly, there are always familiar favorites to revisit. Open for dinner until 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, it&#8217;s also a rare late-night spot.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_123858\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-123858\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-123858 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_006-1024x1245.jpg\" alt=\"Underwood Bistro in Graton\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1245\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_006-1024x1245.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_006-247x300.jpg 247w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_006-768x934.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_006-1264x1536.jpg 1264w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_006-1685x2048.jpg 1685w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_006-1200x1459.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-123858\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Flat Iron Steak Frites with mushroom-shallot butter, arugula, chipotle steak sauce and frites from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Chef Mark Miller has helmed the kitchen for 20 years, creating food that pairs perfectly with the region&#8217;s cool-climate Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays and adding his touches to the menu \u2014 most notably authentic Thai dishes.<\/p>\n<p>On his first trip to Southeast Asia in the early 1990s, he fell in love with the hallmark sweet, sour and salty flavors of Thai cuisine \u2014 so much so that he began cooking in a Thai kitchen, learning how to make authentic curries, sauces and wok-fired dishes.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;I started going back every year \u2014 sometimes twice a year. Working in a Thai kitchen just changed me,&#8221; Miller said.<\/p>\n<p>And while a few Thai dishes began appearing on the Underwood menu over the years, it wasn&#8217;t until COVID-19 that Thai cuisine became a secret specialty for in-the-know locals.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_123863\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-123863\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-123863\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_008-1024x650.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"650\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_008-1024x650.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_008-300x191.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_008-768x488.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_008-1536x976.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_008-2048x1301.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_008-1200x762.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/ alt=\"Hat Yai Fried Chicken with sticky rice, cucumber salad and sweet + sour sauce with a Mucho Micho cocktail from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-123863\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hat Yai Fried Chicken with sticky rice, cucumber salad and sweet and sour sauce with a Mucho Micho cocktail from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_123865\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-123865\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-123865 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_002-1024x1180.jpg\" alt=\"Underwood Bistro in Graton\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1180\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_002-1024x1180.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_002-260x300.jpg 260w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_002-768x885.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_002-1333x1536.jpg 1333w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_002-1778x2048.jpg 1778w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_002-1200x1383.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-123865\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Mark Miller\u2019s Lord of the Rice competition winner: Nam Khao Tod, Lao-Thai Crispy Rice Salad with the popular Pineapple Express cocktail with a sprig of Thai basil Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024, from Underwood Bar and Bistro in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>As restaurants shifted to takeout-only during the early months of the pandemic, Underwood moved to an all-Thai menu to simplify takeout. Cheeseburgers just don&#8217;t travel as well as pad Thai, said Miller. Locals not only loved it, they lined up for it.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;It just took off,&#8221; he said. With few choices for any type of Asian cuisine in west county, flavorful dishes like pad thai, crispy rice salad, Thai lettuce cups and Thai-style fried chicken gained a following.<\/p>\n<p>In the years since, the Underwood menu has returned to its lineup of European tapas-style dishes \u2014 though Thai fan favorites have remained.<\/p>\n<p>This year, he hopes to do a Thai pop-up featuring some of his favorite recipes, happy to have an excuse to fire up the wok and cook what he loves.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_123861\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-123861\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-123861\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_003-1024x630.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"630\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_003-1024x630.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_003-300x185.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_003-768x473.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_003-1536x945.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_003-2048x1260.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_003-1200x738.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/ alt=\"Pad Thai from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-123861\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pad Thai from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Fun Fact:<\/strong> Pad thai is the number one seller among Thai dishes. &#8220;I&#8217;m not sure why, but we serve hundreds of them each week,&#8221; Miller said.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Vibe:<\/strong> The bar is the heart of the restaurant and a great place to hang out if you&#8217;re going solo. The dining room is <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/top-six-coziest-bars-in-sonoma-county\/?gSlide=16\">cozy<\/a>, with tables for two and four \u2014 but it can get loud at night. The secluded outdoor patio is excellent for a lunch rendezvous or brunch with your dog.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_123862\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-123862\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-123862 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009-1024x1378.jpg\" alt=\"Underwood Bistro in Graton\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1378\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009-1024x1378.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009-223x300.jpg 223w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009-768x1033.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009-1142x1536.jpg 1142w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009-1522x2048.jpg 1522w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009-1200x1614.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_009.jpg 1903w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-123862\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A couple celebrate their anniversary in one of the two patio dining areas available for pets at Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>The Food:<\/strong> Chou-fleur, a cauliflower gratin, is a must-try \u2014 even if you hate cauliflower. No one can hate that much butter and cheese on anything. Salads are a specialty, and they&#8217;re all worth trying. The French frisse aux lardons salad has bitter greens, a poached egg and pancetta. You can&#8217;t go wrong with entr\u00e9es, but the pad grapao moo is excellent. This unique Thai dish has spicy ground pork, a fried egg, pungent fish sauce with lime juice and jasmine rice. Hat Yai fried chicken is a revelation.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_123856\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-123856\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-123856\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_001-1024x681.jpg\" width=\"1024\" height=\"681\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_001-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_001-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_001-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_001-1536x1021.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_001-2048x1362.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_001-1200x798.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/ alt=\"Pad Grapao Moo with spicy stir fried ground pork, long beans, Thai-style fried egg, prik nam pla and jasmine rice from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)\"><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-123856\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pad Grapao Moo with spicy stir fried ground pork, long beans, Thai-style fried egg, prik nam pla and jasmine rice from Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_123859\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-123859\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-123859 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_007-1024x638.jpg\" alt=\"Underwood Bistro in Graton\" width=\"1024\" height=\"638\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_007-1024x638.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_007-300x187.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_007-768x479.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_007-1536x957.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_007-2048x1276.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/jb0320_underwood_007-1200x748.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-123859\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view into the bar from the main dining room at Underwood Bar and Bistro Friday, March 21, 2025, in Graton. (John Burgess \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>The Perks:<\/strong> An excellent classic cocktail list.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Tab:<\/strong> Appetizers are $12-$15, and with a cocktail are a nice light choice. Salads are $13 to $24, and entr\u00e9es from $24 to $36 (steak is $55). The range of prices makes it affordable for most, but you can certainly splurge.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Service:<\/strong> Overall excellent, with props to the bar staff. Wait times are reasonable, even on busy nights.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Spot:<\/strong> 9113 Graton Road, Graton, 707-823-7023, <a href=\"https:\/\/underwoodgraton.com\/\">underwoodgraton.com<\/a><\/p>\n<p><em>You can reach Dining Editor Heather Irwin at <a href=\"mailto:heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com\">heather.irwin@pressdemocrat.com<\/a>. Follow Heather on Instagram <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/biteclubeats\">@biteclubeats<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Authentic Thai cuisine is a surprise on this west county bistro menu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":145,"featured_media":123863,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2288,113,24298,5,25145,749],"tags":[1800,2396],"layout":[5591],"class_list":["post-123855","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-biteclub","category-eat-and-drink","category-sonoma-restaurants","category-things-to-do","category-trending","category-whats-new-sonoma-county","tag-graton","tag-underwood-bistro"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.3.1 (Yoast SEO v25.3.1) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Legendary Underwood Bistro Serves up Worldly Surprises in Graton - 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