{"id":123549,"date":"2025-03-24T12:30:49","date_gmt":"2025-03-24T19:30:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/?p=123549"},"modified":"2025-04-16T10:18:13","modified_gmt":"2025-04-16T17:18:13","slug":"a-creative-glen-ellen-vintner-makes-white-wines-from-rustic-italian-reds","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/a-creative-glen-ellen-vintner-makes-white-wines-from-rustic-italian-reds\/","title":{"rendered":"A Creative Glen Ellen Vintner Makes White Wines From Rustic Italian Reds"},"content":{"rendered":"

Fact: Nearly all grapes have pale-colored pulp inside, even red grapes.<\/p>\n

Red wines become red not because of the color of the juice inside the grapes but because of the skins on the outside. When red grapes are crushed and fermented with their outer skins to make a red wine, the heat of that fermentation extracts red color and flavors. Take away those outer skins, and those characteristics no longer play a part in the final wine. In other words, it is possible to make a white wine out of red grapes.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not a new concept. Winemakers have been doing this for ages. In fact, two out of the three main varieties used to make Champagne, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, are red. But leaving the red skins behind to make still white wines from reds is a more recent trend.<\/p>\n

\"Emeritus
Emeritus Vineyards\u2019 Mari Jones was the driving force behind the winery\u2019s white Pinot Noir, produced from its famed Hallberg Ranch. (Christopher Chung \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"still
Shalini Sekhar, winemaker and owner of Ottavino Wines, with a glass of Ottavino 2022 St. Laurent at Sonoma’s Ricci Vineyards. Sekhar has been experimenting with making still white wines from Pinot Noir \u2014 essentially a sparkling wine without the fizz. (Beth Schlanker \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A few local winemakers, including Mari Jones of Emeritus Vineyards in Sebastopol<\/a>, Shalini Sekhar of Ottavino Wines in Sonoma<\/a> and Waits-Mast in the Anderson Valley, have been experimenting with making still white wines from Pinot Noir<\/a> \u2014 essentially a sparkling wine without the fizz.<\/p>\n

But more recently, Cindy Cosco of Sonoma\u2019s Passaggio Wines<\/a> has been experimenting with making still white wines from rustic Italian reds like Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.
\nWhen Cosco founded the label in 2007, her intent was to be a white wine producer. She\u2019s also made some fantastic reds over the years, but the 2024 portfolio is once again focused primarily on whites. \u201cI\u2019ve come full circle,\u201d she said \u2014 but in a more unique and interesting way than she ever thought.<\/p>\n

\"Passaggio
Cindy Cosco, of Sonoma\u2019s Passaggio Wines, is making white wines from Italian and French red grapes. (Passaggio Wines)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cosco\u2019s first foray into these whites-from-reds was a happy accident.<\/p>\n

\u201cI had done a Cab Franc Blanc for a friend back in 2018 \u2014 it was supposed to be a ros\u00e9, but it came out white. He sold out, people loved it so much,\u201d she said. \u201cSo, I thought, I\u2019ll try it again, but on purpose. And if this last year taught me anything, it\u2019s that people are looking for something different. When you tell them you have a white red, it creates interest.\u201d<\/p>\n

Winemakers like Cosco and Jones tweak the production process when working a red into a white wine. The grapes are picked earlier, fermentation temperatures are lower and the winemaking is done in neutral, stainless-steel vessels \u2014 no oak. The result is a lighter, higher acid, lower alcohol version of their red-expression counterparts, perfect for sipping on the patio on a spring afternoon.<\/p>\n

\"white
A bottle of Emeritus Vineyards Hallberg Blanc Pinot Noir in Sebastopol, Wednesday, Sept. 13, 2023. (Christopher Chung \/ The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A small selection of Passaggio Wines, in the tasting room at Jack London Village in Glen Ellen. (Robbi Pengelly\/Index-Tribune)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Passaggio Wines 2024 Sangiovese Bianco, $29<\/h4>\n

\u201cWhen you taste it blind, you\u2019d never know it was a red, but you definitely wouldn\u2019t know what kind of white wine it is,\u201d says Cosco. The surprise, she comments, is how the grape\u2019s innate florality shines through \u2014 maybe even more so from the delicate winemaking process.<\/p>\n

Passaggio Wines 2024 Cabernet Franc Blanc, $30<\/h4>\n

Just a delicate nod to the red wine original, Passaggio\u2019s Cab Franc Blanc is layered with subtle herbaceous notes and red-berry fruits, lifted by a bright, vibrant acidity.<\/p>\n

Passaggio Wines 2024 White Nebbiolo, $29<\/h4>\n

\u201cTar and roses\u201d is a common descriptor for this native Piemonte red wine that typically reaches alcohol levels of 14% or above. While the nose gives a little wink to white roses, the palate blooms with juicy just-ripe white plums and strawberries, balanced by a lean 12.9% alcohol by volume (ABV). \u201cPair with seafood or white pasta dishes,\u201d advises Cosco.<\/p>\n

Passaggio Wines<\/strong>, 14301 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, 707-719-9813, passaggiowines.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A few local winemakers have been experimenting with making still white wines from red wine grapes. Here are a few to try.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":145,"featured_media":123553,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[113,2620,2602,5,25145,749],"tags":[24368,25611,652,211],"layout":[5591],"class_list":["post-123549","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-eat-and-drink","category-magazine","category-wine","category-things-to-do","category-trending","category-whats-new-sonoma-county","tag-glen-ellen-wine-tasting","tag-glen-ellen-winery","tag-red-wine","tag-wine-country","issue-march-april-2025"],"yoast_head":"\nA Creative Sonoma Vintner Makes White Wines From Rustic Reds - Sonoma Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A few local winemakers have been experimenting with making still white wines from red wine grapes. 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