{"id":109293,"date":"2023-10-23T16:21:02","date_gmt":"2023-10-23T23:21:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/?p=109293"},"modified":"2023-10-23T16:21:02","modified_gmt":"2023-10-23T23:21:02","slug":"these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/","title":{"rendered":"These Local Harvest Heroes Save the Day When Winery Equipment Fails"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nothing much surprises mechanic Harvey Gonzalez of Europress as he criss-crosses Sonoma County each harvest, not even a wayward bird\u2019s nest found inside a wine press during a tune-up.<\/p>\n

Dave Peritore, the one-man show at Winery Service Connection, earned the nickname \u201cEquipment Jesus\u201d\u2014 presumably for acting as the savior of the day’s fruit many times over.<\/p>\n

And at Carlsen & Associates, a family-owned business in Healdsburg that builds and maintains winery equipment, the phone pretty much doesn\u2019t stop ringing from August through November, says head of service Tony Tchamourian.<\/p>\n

Superman has nothing on these folks, ones who put in long hours on the road to get the job done at a critical time of year for the county\u2019s most iconic industry, one that brings in over half a billion dollars annually.<\/p>\n

Because when the heat is on and the equipment isn\u2019t working, the wine will suffer.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe sting can be real for a winemaker,\u201d says Peritore. \u201cWhen it\u2019s 89 degrees out and the machine is down, it can hurt harvest in a big way\u2014it can be exactly the wrong kind of failure at the wrong time.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Jair
Jair Urincho making winemaking equipment at Carlsen and Associates in Healdsburg. (Erik Castro\/for Sonoma Magazine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Leo
Leo Autuori making winemaking equipment at Carlsen and Associates in Healdsburg. (Erik Castro\/for Sonoma Magazine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Winegrapes can\u2019t just hang around. After they\u2019re harvested, they need to be brought to the winery and processed as soon as possible; they\u2019re not going to keep for a day or two until a broken piece of equipment can be brought back up and running.<\/p>\n

The best mechanics have the mindset of trauma surgeons, explains Jeff Hinchliffe of Hanna Winery. \u201cWhile you’re freaking out about your grapes, they remain almost uniformly nonplussed. They\u2019re able to think a problem through dispassionately, despite the urgency of the situation.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI understand there\u2019s a lot of pressure\u2014harvest happens just once a year,\u201d says Parker Borg, who answers the phone in the service department at Carlsen & Associates and is often at the receiving end of anxious calls from winemakers. Like a 911 operator or an emergency room triage nurse, Borg and his colleagues have learned to gauge the seriousness of the situation by the tone of the caller\u2019s voice.<\/p>\n

\u201cEveryone calls in a panic,\u201d says Tchamourian. \u201cWe have to do a quick assessment over the phone. A lot of times, the first question we ask is, do you have grapes? And if you don\u2019t have grapes, when are you getting your grapes? And depending on what that answer is, is how we\u2019re going to react to that emergency.\u201d Often, a technician is able to talk through a fix over the phone.<\/p>\n

Related:<\/span>\nThe Faces of Harvest<\/a><\/div>\n

If not, someone will be on the way to figure out the fastest solution to get things running. \u201cIt takes a good crew\u2014people who are willing to put their personal lives aside and are willing to help,\u201d says Tchamourian. \u201cA lot of time, we get calls in the middle of the night, like \u2018I know it\u2019s 1 a.m., but are you available?\u2019 Because the customers know we will always answer our phone.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cIt gets stressful for sure for us in the service department,\u201d says Borg. A dirt bike racer and grandson of Carlsen\u2019s founder, Borg \u201cgrew up wrenching\u201d and started hanging out in the service shop when he was in his early teens. It’s the only job he’s ever had.<\/p>\n

\"David
Dave Peritore\u2019s tools rest in custom foam cutouts, so he\u2019ll know if anything is missing, left behind after a job. (Erik Castro\/for Sonoma Magazine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Harvest season is incredibly\u00a0hard on winery equipment, including tractors, forklifts, presses, pumps, conveyers, and crusher-destemmers\u2014complicated, medievallooking machines with stainless steel barrels and rotating paddles that separate the berries and crush them into juice, spitting off the unwanted stems through a side chute. It gets stuck quite a bit.<\/p>\n

Many of these machines are stored away eight or nine months of the year, until August rolls around. Then it\u2019s go time. \u201cOnce the winemakers start getting their grapes in, it starts really picking up,\u201d says Tchamourian. \u201cAll the people who never fired up their equipment all year, or never checked anything, they\u2019re the ones calling us, saying, \u2018We need you here, we need you here now.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

Technicians encourage winemakers to have them come out for a pre-harvest service, to give equipment the once-over. Even better, says Tchamourian, is to make sure all of the equipment is carefully cleaned, oiled, and serviced at the end of the previous year\u2019s harvest, before it\u2019s stored away.<\/p>\n

The crushpad environment is unforgiving, after all. Grape juice and water aren\u2019t great for electrical machinery, and neither is all the sun and the heat. Sticky grape skins and tiny grapeseeds find their way into the tiniest of cracks, and grape stems seem perfectly designed to jam up the destemmers. Moisture condenses inside electrical panels, corrosion wears away housings or controls. A small rock mixed in with the fruit and carried up the conveyer can wreak all kinds of havoc, as can a wrench left behind inside a press. People are tired. Mistakes happen.<\/p>\n

And yet, Tchamourian says the technicians are usually able to get things up again the same day. \u201cI\u2019ve literally zip-tied a control box to a piece of equipment just to make it go, until I could get back out there to fix it properly. Emergency methods\u2014it\u2019s not ideal. But when you\u2019ve got 10 or 20 tons lined up, you have to, especially with what grapes are costing this year. It\u2019s crazy. It\u2019s thousands of dollars.\u201d<\/p>\n

In the rare cases where they can\u2019t fix it, they\u2019re often able to sub it out temporarily with another piece of equipment. \u201cThe one thing that stumps us is parts,\u201d he explains. \u201cIf the part isn\u2019t available or it\u2019s an older machine, then we have to think on the fly to fabricate it or replace it with something else.\u201d<\/p>\n

Smart winemakers know it’s\u00a0good to stay on the good side of the ones who keep their gear up and running, whether it\u2019s a tractor repairperson, a press technician, or an equipment manufacturer. \u201cThere are so many wheels that turn this engine,\u201d says winemaker Ellie Ceja of Heirs of My Dream, a winery and custom crush operation in Sonoma.<\/p>\n

Morgan Twain-Peterson, winemaker at Bedrock Wine Co. in Sonoma, is \u201cvery cognizant\u201d of the many who play a role in getting a bottle of wine into a customer’s hands. He\u2019s worked for years with Alejandro Arellano, a self-taught mechanic (who also plays mariachi on the side, though not so much during harvest). Arellano grew up in the vineyards, the son of a local foreman. When a tractor is down during harvest, he\u2019ll get it up and running to make sure the middle-of-the-night picks don\u2019t slow down, even for a few minutes.<\/p>\n

\"The
The inner workings of a Kubota tractor. (Erik Castro\/for Sonoma Magazine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Alejandro
Alejandro Arellano works on getting a Kubota tractors ready for harvest season at Bedrock Vineyard in Glen Ellen. (Erik Castro\/for Sonoma Magazine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

But how do you thank the person who\u2019s saved your harvest? A nice bottle of wine left on the seat of the truck, sure. A home-cooked meal would be nice, or even a few moments to sit down with a cold beer. Unfortunately, these professionals don\u2019t have time for that\u2014they\u2019ve got other service calls to make, a family to get home to. Leo Artuori, who has worked at Carlsen for 21 years, says being able to help someone out at a stressful time keeps him going through the season. \u201cYou\u2019re the hero. When everyone\u2019s waiting on you and you fix that machine, you walk away feeling 10 feet tall.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Superman has nothing on these mechanics, who put in long hours to get the job done at a critical time of year for Sonoma County’s most iconic industry. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":56,"featured_media":109305,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2620,5,749],"tags":[],"layout":[5590],"class_list":["post-109293","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-magazine","category-things-to-do","category-whats-new-sonoma-county","issue-september-october-2023"],"yoast_head":"\nThese Local Harvest Heroes Save the Day When Winery Equipment Fails - Sonoma Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Superman has nothing on these mechanics, who put in long hours to get the job done at a critical time of year for Sonoma County's most iconic industry.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"website\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"These Local Harvest Heroes Save the Day When Winery Equipment Fails\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Superman has nothing on these mechanics, who put in long hours to get the job done at a critical time of year for Sonoma County's most iconic industry.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sonoma Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/SONOMAmagazine\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-10-23T23:21:02+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/d1sve9khgp0cw0.cloudfront.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Harvey-Gonzalez_0981.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2560\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1709\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Sofia Englund\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sonomamag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sonomamag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Abigail Peterson\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"7 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Sofia Englund\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/#\/schema\/person\/6a918ab24ba8099f0389e965dcaa44dd\"},\"headline\":\"These Local Harvest Heroes Save the Day When Winery Equipment Fails\",\"datePublished\":\"2023-10-23T23:21:02+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/\"},\"wordCount\":1378,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Harvey-Gonzalez_0981.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Magazine\",\"Things To Do in Sonoma\",\"What's New in Wine Country\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/these-local-harvest-heroes-save-the-day-when-winery-equipment-fails\/\",\"name\":\"These Local Harvest Heroes Save the Day When Winery Equipment Fails - 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