{"id":105440,"date":"2023-05-25T16:12:44","date_gmt":"2023-05-25T23:12:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/?p=105440"},"modified":"2023-05-25T16:13:07","modified_gmt":"2023-05-25T23:13:07","slug":"wheres-the-love-how-the-james-beard-awards-snubbed-sonoma-chefs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sonomamag.com\/wheres-the-love-how-the-james-beard-awards-snubbed-sonoma-chefs\/","title":{"rendered":"Where’s the Love? How the James Beard Awards Snubbed Sonoma Chefs"},"content":{"rendered":"

When the 2023 James Beard Award nominations were announced in January, you could almost hear a collective sigh rise from the Sonoma County food world. Maybe it was more of a sad gasp\u2014like a stopper pulled from a two-day-old bottle of sparkling wine.<\/p>\n

Did we do something to offend the culinary trophy gods? No love for Animo and chef Joshua Smookler? There may be no signage in front of the popular Sonoma restaurant tucked between a McDonald\u2019s and a smog shop, but had the program\u2019s restaurant scouts not heard about the innovative, wood-fired mashup of Basque and Korean cuisines?<\/p>\n

Related:<\/span>\nSonoma\u2019s Animo Is the New Restaurant Everyone Is Talking About<\/a><\/div>\n

Or what about a best new restaurant shoutout for St\u00e9phane Saint Louis and Steven Vargas at Table Culture Provisions? With their nightly multi-course tasting menu getting tons of buzz, they were hoping this might be the year. \u201cOur ultimate goal is to get a Michelin mention,\u201d Saint Louis told a reporter at the end of 2022.<\/p>\n

And what about emerging chef Fiorella Butron at Edge and pioneering pastry chef Melissa Yanc at Quail & Condor?<\/p>\n

To no one\u2019s surprise, Kyle and Katina Connaughton got a nod at SingleThread in Healdsburg for \u201cBest Chef: California.\u201d It\u2019s well deserved, but there they sit all alone\u2014the only nominee from Sonoma County across all categories.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Kyle
Kyle and Katina Connaughton got a nod at SingleThread in Healdsburg for \u201cBest Chef: California.\u201d (Chad Surmick\/The Press Democrat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
\"Melissa
Melissa Yanc of Quail & Condor bakery and Troubadour in Healdsburg is a SingleThread alum. (Emma K. Morris)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So much for the everybody-under-the-tent mantra of recent years. There\u2019s a backstory there:<\/p>\n

Two years ago, the James Beard program faced a backlash after an audit found too few nominees and judges of color. The program was put on hold in 2020 and 2021, partly due to Covid, and relaunched in 2022 with a promise of more inclusivity, more BIPOC judges, and more transparency. After all, nobody wants to be the Hollywood Foreign Press of the foodie awards circuit.<\/p>\n

Related:<\/span>\n15 Best New Restaurants in Sonoma<\/a><\/div>\n

James Beard Award nomination rules are notoriously tricky. Read the fine print and you\u2019ll see that a nominee for Outstanding Restaurateur \u201cmust have been in the restaurant business for at least five years and they must not have won a James Beard Foundation chef award in the past three years.\u201d Another new rule states \u201ca restaurant and its chef cannot be nominated in both restaurant and chef categories in the same year.\u201d<\/p>\n

Just think of what\u2019s at stake. With a win, or sometimes even just a nomination, the trajectory of a restaurateur\u2019s career is forever altered. Cue the book deals, cookware endorsements, maybe even a spot on Food Network\u2019s next mega battle royale.<\/p>\n

That\u2019s why El Molino Central owner Karen Taylor\u2019s response to awards like these might be one of the best we\u2019ve heard. \u201cWe\u2019ve had a James Beard, I think. I don\u2019t know,\u201d she says. (The seasonally focused Sonoma Mexican restaurant was nominated as a James Beard semifinalist in 2017, 2018, 2019 and 2020, but has yet to win.) The only way she finds out about a nomination, she says, is when the list comes out, \u201ca friend will text me.\u201d<\/p>\n

El Molino has also garnered a Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition. \u201cWe finally put it up\u2014a medal thing they give you,\u201d Taylor says. \u201cWe just rest it on the back of one of the counters, behind the wine.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"The
The 2023 James Beard Awards will be given out at a glitzy gala in Chicago in June. Winners receive silver medals\u2014and often, a chance to capitalize upon their win with lucrative endorsements and book deals. (James Beard Foundation)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Taylor\u2019s thoughts on Michelin stars? \u201cI remember when Betty\u2019s Fish \u2019N Chips had the same number of Michelin stars as Chez Panisse.\u201d<\/p>\n

But who decides? Whether we\u2019re talking James Beard awards or Michelin stars, we\u2019re wading into a murky world that seems run by secret societies and hush-hush handshakes.<\/p>\n

No one knows this better than Jil Hales at Barndiva in Healdsburg. When the restaurant won its first Michelin star last year, nearly two decades after it opened, it was a total shocker.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey are notoriously mysterious,\u201d Hales says of the Michelin review process. \u201cAnybody that tells you they know things is telling a porker. You know they come out more than once, and you don\u2019t know what they look at.\u201d<\/p>\n

Hales admits she\u2019s a little apprehensive talking to me about the subject. It’s easy to understand why: He (or she) who bestoweth can also taketh away. Look what happened at Terrapin Creek in Bodega Bay. In 2012, they won a Michelin star, only to lose it in 2018. At the time, according to Michelin\u2019s international director Gwendal Poullennec, top-secret Michelin inspectors thought the food was missing its previous \u201cspark and quality.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Dining
Barndiva in Healdsburg won a 2021 Michelin star, making it one of only two Michelin-starred restaurants in Sonoma County. (Kim Carroll\/for Sonoma Magazine)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Short of a decoder ring, here\u2019s a theory about this year\u2019s nominations: many believe that Sonoma County restaurants have become exceptional at what has become known around the world as \u201cWine Country cuisine\u201d\u2014i.e. what\u2019s fresh and seasonal, farm-to-table, grape to glass, seed to hash\u2014all summed up in a kind of omniscient terroir that you can apply to nearly every menu and every ingredient.<\/p>\n

And maybe that\u2019s not what judges are looking for anymore. Bay Area restaurants scoring James Beard nominations this year included Jo\u2019s Modern Thai from chef Intuon Kornnawong in Oakland, the Moroccan flavors of San Francisco\u2019s Mourad, and the Indigenous roots cuisine of Caf\u00e9 Ohlone in Berkeley. There\u2019s a thought\u2014wouldn\u2019t it be nice if Sonoma County had a restaurant that paid homage to the foods of the original inhabitants of this region? In Sebastopol, Heron Shadow Farm manager Redbird Willie grows Indigenous crops for Wahpepah\u2019s Kitchen in Oakland. Imagine if a local restaurant bought his crops.<\/p>\n

But maybe trying to make sense of any awards process is futile.<\/p>\n

\u201cGood luck cracking that code,\u201d says Barndiva\u2019s Jil Hales. \u201cIf you do, you\u2019ll win a Pulitzer.\u201d<\/p>\n

In other words, we\u2019ll have to wait until next year. When maybe, just maybe, the Michelin gods and James Beard acolytes will rain down upon us in such glorious benevolence that all will be right in the pantheon of foodie awards again.<\/p>\n

Until then, let\u2019s be happy with what\u2019s on our plate. In the words of parents everywhere, you get what you get, and you don\u2019t get upset.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When the 2023 James Beard Award nominations were announced in January, there was only one nominee from Sonoma County across all categories.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":56,"featured_media":91266,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[113,2620,5,749],"tags":[],"layout":[5590],"class_list":["post-105440","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-eat-and-drink","category-magazine","category-things-to-do","category-whats-new-sonoma-county","issue-may-june-2023"],"yoast_head":"\nWhere's the Love? 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